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Where the Kyles of Bute narrow to only 300 metres wide between the Isle of Bute and the Cowal peninsula the town of Colintraive sits on the mainland. Here early farmers swam their cattle from Bute to the mainland on their way to be sold, but now the short journey is accomplished by a Caledonian MacBrayne ferry between Colintraive and Rhubodach on the island. The island and mainland shores of the Kyles and the coasts of Loch Ruel above make up the Kyles of Bute National Scenic Area. The narrow channel between steep tree-cloaked hills with occasional rocky outcrops gives the area an almost otherworldly atmosphere.
Activities and Attractions
The drive from Colintraive around the mainland coast to Tighnabruaich is particularly scenic. The stretches that hug the coast have a feeling of enclosure, while the parts that climb the hills deliver magnificent views of the hills and the channel. Occasional tidy homes seem more like wilderness outposts than intruding civilization. A small part of the route can be walked on a six kilometre footpath starting in Tighnabruaich at the boatyard.
The Clachan of Glendaruel lies close to Colintraive, so close that the two villages are often spoken of collectively as Col-Glen. Glendaruel Churchyard contains a fascinating collection of carved grave slabs. A few miles away stands evidence of far older burials: Ach-na-ha-cairn is a Neolithic burial site with a chamber formed of tall upright stones and the ruins of a forecourt. At Balliemore Farm stand two megaliths, one tall spire standing over a shorter stone like a mother with her child. A row of three standing stones may be found at Inveryne.
Around 1745 Clan Fletcher relocated to Glendaruel bringing with them the door to their previous castle to hang in their new manor of Dunans. To the manse they built was eventually added a francobaronial wing, making the whole a double building connected by the two story utility space. The bridge leading to Dunans is also a historical structure. It was constructed in 1815 as a memorial to the battle of Waterloo. Sadly the interior of the castle was destroyed in a fire in 2001, but renovation work is under way. The grounds are open to visitors on Saturdays and Sundays throughout the year.
When botanist Reginald Farrer became famous for his work in the Himalayas, his aunt Lady Grace Campbell established a garden on 40 hectares around Crarae Burn. Now a National Trust Property, the resulting collection of Himalayan specimens and other plants is open to the public all year round, although the Visitor Center is only active from April to October.
On the shore south of Colintraive at Altgaltraig is a neat white church with a bright blue door that bills itself as the smallest church in Scotland. Called Colintraive Church even though it is 1.5 kilometres south of the town, it was built by a Mrs. Campbell in 1840 and served several denominations in succession before being reacquired by the Church of Scotland in 1929.
Ettrick Bay on the west side of Bute has a gently sloping beach a kilometre and a half long that becomes a beautifully wide expanse of sand at low tide. Nearby lies the beginning of a sixteen kilometre footpath leading north to Kilmichael. At the north end of the path is a prehistoric chambered cairn. Glecknabae, just a bit further north than Kilmichael, is set in a landscape studded with ancient cairns. Its main attraction is Glecknabae Garden, an unusual arrangement of formal courtyard plantings. Glecknabae hosts occasional "Music in the Garden" events with live local talent.
The St. Colmac's Church, once known as the North Bute Parish Church, was built in 1836. The second Marquess of Bute had it constructed for the convenience of Gaelic-speaking residents of the north of the island. Its name was changed in 1929 and it functioned as St. Colmac's until 1980 when it closed. While it is missing its roof, the details around its beautiful windows and the views from the grounds make it well worth a visit. A circle of stone megaliths stands nearby.
Access and Places to Stay
Few travellers stop in Colintraive, but there is lodging available as well as a pub. Camping, caravanning and self-catering accommodation abound in the countryside and the surrounding communities. Road access is through the A866, accessible via single-track roads from Dunoon or the A83 and A815 from Strachur. One could also reach the town by taking the ferry from from Wemyss Bay near Glasgow to Rothesay on Bute, drive up to Rhubodach and reach Colintraive via the ferry. A car, either hired or one's own, is a necessity to explore this area.
Accommodation in Colintraive
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