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Strategic considerations likely dictated the location of Dunoon Castle on its promontory on the east side Cowal Peninsula commanding the Clyde, but it is as a tourist hot spot that the town of Dunoon has been famous for nearly two centuries. Its present pier was constructed in 1895, and its predecessor in 1835. Like other piers in the area it served the paddle steamers that brought Glaswegians out for a bit of fresh air at the seaside. Dunoon got a new breakwater in 2005 to protect the historical pier, and now the one surviving paddle steamer, PS Waverly, ties up there rather than at the pier itself as does a passenger-only ferry from Gourock.
Activities and attractions
The Cowal Highland Gathering in Dunoon over the last weekend in August features pipe bands and dancing, Highland games, a ceilidh tent, traditional food and fireworks. A separate tent has recently been added featuring children's entertainment. The Gathering attracts more than 3000 competitors from as far away as South Africa, Australia and Canada. Around 20,000 spectators flock to Dunoon for the event.
The jagged coastline of the Cowal Peninsula offers plenty of scope for sailing and boating, windsurfing, kayaking and water skiing. Its hills provide walks of all levels as well as rock climbing, abseiling and mountain biking. The Forest of Dunoon offers walks ranging from two to 27 kilometres in length. CowalFest in October is the area's great walking festival. It offers more than 80 guided walks and equestrian and cycling tours as well as concerts, tours of homes and churches and art events.
The peninsula's five golf courses differ enough in character that a dedicated golfer could base an entire Dunoon holiday around exploring their possibilities. Only the Cowal Golf Course in Dunoon has eighteen holes; the rest have only nine. Scenic Drimsynie Golf Course is playable by beginners and families, and Kyles of Bute Golf Course is known for wildlife sightings. Innellan Golf Club is famous for its views of the Firth of Clyde, and Blairmore & Strone Golf Club for panoramic vistas over Loch Long and the Holy Loch.
Dunoon has the shape of an 'E' around two bays with a rocky promontory in between. The eleventh century castle stood at the end of this neck, towering over the water and the shore alike. It was destroyed in the rebellion in 1685. Castle House was built just north of the ruin in 1822 and is now a museum. The development of the area as a resort after the construction of the first pier led wealthy Glaswegians to build villas here and build resort hotels for more proletarian visitors. Both lend character to the town.
Twelfth century Carrick Castle at the head of Loch Goil was also destroyed in the rebellion in 1685, but its ruins are somewhat more complete than those at Dunoon. Of particular interest is a small fireplace built in a window recess and a challenging footpath that leads from the castle to Ardentinny.
At the tip of the Cowal peninsula are the ruins of Toward Castle, the Lamont stronghold from which the flower of the clan were tricked in 1646 with a promise that their lives would be spared only to be hanged in Dunoon. The present structure was built in 1820 and currently provides schoolchildrens' special interest camps.
Benmore Botanic Garden with its huge trees, walled gardens and waterfalls makes a pleasant excursion from Dunoon. Its enormous Victorian fernery was recently refurbished and now assists in the preservation of endangered species suitable to its environment. The collections of conifers and particularly rhododendrons are quite expansive. Benmore is a satellite of the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh.
Dunoon has a reputation for ceramics and particularly mugs. Production of stoneware mugs began in the 1970s, and they are now shipped all over the world. Fine china mugs are also available. Shoppers will find both available in a wide assortment of styles from a variety of local retailers. Another local speciality is venison products.
Access and Places to Stay
Dunoon sits at the southern end of the A815 which joins the A83 near Cairndow. The Waverly and a Caledonian MacBrayne passenger-only ferry from Gourock serve Dunoon breakwater, but vehicular traffic must use rival Western Ferries' service to Hunter's Quay a mile and a half from Dunoon from McInroy's Point near Gourock. The nearest rail connection is at Gourock Pier. Buses are available to Inveraray and Glasgow.
Lodging in Dunoon can range from campgrounds and caravan parks to the luxury hotels built during its heyday to serve Glasgow holidaymakers come "doon the watter." The town's nightlife is confined to pubs, but there are plenty of them particularly in Argyll Street. Eateries range from restaurants to takeaways, but all serve decent food.
Accommodation in Dunoon
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