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The Isle of Lewis and Harris comprise the largest land mass of the Western Isles off the eastern coast of Scotland. Lewis is the northern most portion of the mass and consists of level low-lying ground. Eight thousands years ago, settlers burned the forests for deer grazing. Five thousand years ago, civilizations established farms and settlements, leaving behind brochs, stone towers of the chieftains.
By the first century AD, people arrived bringing the Gaelic culture and language. Beginning in the 6th century, missionaries travelled across the territory bringing Christianity to the native Picts. Vikings raided the land from the seas for centuries, but by the 9th century, some ventured inland.
These Norse made peace with the local people, intermarrying with local families. The island people incorporated the Norse language and Scandinavian designs into their culture and architecture. The Norse in turn, adopted the religious beliefs of the island and gave up Pagan beliefs and ways.
The island became part of Scotland in 1266 after the signing of the Treaty of Perth. The Macleod clan became the ruling family of the territory. The Macleods held the Lordship of the Isles until 1597 after constant warring with other clans and amongst themselves caused forfeiture of the lands and titles.
James IV passed the island to a group of colonists known as the Fife adventures, in hopes of anglicising the people. His attempt failed and in 1609, the MacKenzie family bought out the Fifes.
During the rebellion of 1745, the crown forbid any semblance of Gaelic culture or customs. The people could not wear the traditional folk costumes or use the language. The government also prohibited bartering for goods and services requiring cash payment. Many, who could afford the journey escaped to the mainland of Scotland.
James Matheson purchased Lewis in 1844, but famine and farm failures caused more to leave the region. Landowners evicted tenant farmers from the lands, instead using the ground for livestock grazing and hunting. The people remaining on the isle lived in overcrowded and impoverished conditions in attempts at making new homes.
Soap mogul Lord Leverhulme purchased the island in 1917. He hoped to industrialize the land and develop a fishing cannery. Protests and riots ensued as locals fought to maintain homes and farms taking decades to develop. Discouraged, Leverhulme eventually took his ideas to the Harris portion of the island. Many men from Lewis served and lost their lives during both world wars. Farming, fishing and weaving subsidised the local economy for centuries, but currently farming remains an important industry. Almost half of the population works in the public service sector.
Activities and Attractions
The coasts of Lewis provide the perfect environment for walking on the beach or enjoying water sports. Cruises frequently travel along the shore offering a different perspective of local scenery and the opportunity of observing visiting marine life. For those who prefer to stay land bound, Lewis is rich in historical sites and destinations.
Visitors get to step back in time when journeying to Gearrannan and seeing the blackhouse village. A settlement began here in the 1600s when settlers constructed a group of blackhouses, which were long rectangular structures with thatched roofs.
The Blackhouse Museum explores the tradition of the village buildings and the daily lives led by the people. Women made clothing, prepared food and wove cloth. The men farmed, fished and tended to livestock, in addition to performing any needed repairs. Using oil for lamps and wood for fires, the homes also contained only modest furnishings. Visitors have the chance to tour these historic homes recreated to appear as they did in earlier centuries. The facility also offers self-catering blackhouse cottages for public lodging, along with having a café and shops.
Another example of early housing lies at the Bostadh Iron Age exhibit. The exhibit displays archaeological discoveries that point to an early Pict colony, later occupied by the Norse. Inside a stonewall enclosure, lies a jelly baby house. Thatching completely covers the round stone and timber framed home, and like most structures of the time, future occupants constructed the internal floor below ground level. The subterranean feature of the home provided warmth in the winter and kept residents cool in the summer. The spacious open interior held specific areas for food preparation, gathering and sleeping.
In keeping with early Norse culture, the Shawbost Norse Mill and Kiln represents the early industrial ingenuity of the people. Recreated in typical blackhouse style, the collection of buildings hold the mechanical water powered machinery that operated circular grinding stones. The site demonstrates how early people constructed channels that redirected the water to paddles inside the structure.
Guests travel even further back in time when visiting Calanais. At this location, visitors find three separate interesting arrays of standing stones, created approximately 4,000 years ago. Calanais I is the largest of the formations having 50 stones almost appearing in the shape of a Celtic cross. The centre of the formation contains a circle consisting of 13 stones, standing anywhere from 8 feet (2.4 metres) to 16 feet (4.8 metres) in height. The very centre holds a tomb, added 2,000 to 3,000 years later.
The Calanais II and Calanais III sites feature a stone circle and a double stone circle respectively. The visitor’s centre provides theories and background information concerning the sites and live interpretative demonstrations of skills and trades commonly practiced by these ancient peoples.
Places to Stay and Dining
Lewis features a number of hotels situated along the scenic coast. Front facing rooms capture sunrises and sunsets over the water while rear-facing rooms offer stunning views of the mountains. Laying this close to the water, guests are only minutes away from fishing, surfing or other popular water sports.
Guests enjoy the fresh taste of the sea at the Gallan Head Restaurant. The facility offers everything from freshly prepared haddock fishcakes and cod rolls to scallops served in garlic butter and island lobster poached in a creamy onion sauce.
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