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Isle Of Mull

 
The Isle Of Mull

When the Spanish Armada was blown north by a storm in 1588, one ship was said to have wound up in Tobermory Bay on the Isle of Mull. Some say it bought provisions here, and others that it contracted to provide assistance in a local dispute. All agree that it sank, although decades of exploration have revealed no trace of it. Mull does have remains of almost every period of human existence. When the ice receded around 6000 BCE at the end of the last Ice Age, people came to Mull. They left behind stone tools and monuments, and after 600 BCE Iron Age fortifications like hillforts, crannogs and brochs.

In 563 CE Christianity arrived with St. Columba, who built his famous monastery just off Mull's southwest coast on Iona. Later Mull became a part of the Lordship of the Isles. Clan MacLean took over the island when the Lordship failed in 1493, and Clan Campbell in 1681. During the Highland Clearances the population of Mull was slashed to less than a third of its former level. In the early years of the twentieth century more sheep than people lived on Mull. During World War II the whole island was a naval base used to train ships as convoy escorts. The building of Craignure pier in 1964 brought tourism to the island, and of late ecotourism has become a speciality.

Activities and Attractions

While the Spanish Galleon in the harbour remains unidentified, there are several wrecks off Mull worth diving and a number of outfitters eager to show them off to visitors. Tobermory and Craignure have golf courses, and there is a third course on Iona.

Every October the Tour of Mull road sets racers a course over Mull's public roads with their steep hills, hairpin turns and long stretches of single lane roadway. While professionals do compete and win here, so do long-time residents who pit their local knowledge against the skills and equipment of full-time drivers.

Traditional Highland culture is on display at the Tobermory Golf Club every August during the Mull Highland Games. Competitors vie for awards in heavy events--the stone put, hammer throw, and sheaf toss as well as the famous caber toss--as well as light field events and Highland Dance. Also in August a 10K road race and half marathon is run between Craignure and Salen.

Mull Theatre has a purpose-built production centre in Druimfin just outside Tobermory. Their productions of repertory, new writing, commissions and children's theatre receive very positive critical response. The An Tobar arts centre in an old schoolhouse in Tobermory hosts musical performances as well as exhibitions of local artwork.

The 13th century MacLean fortress of Duart Castle is visible from the ferry as it approaches Mull. A branch line, the MacLaens of Lochbuie, occupied Moy castle with its tale of the headless horseman. Ruinous Aros Castle on its promontory near Salen was a citadel of the MacDonald Lords of the Isles, and Torosay Castle near Craignure is a 19th century manor.

The Tobermory whiskey distillery's buildings date, in the main, from soon after its initial construction in 1798. The facility has gone silent several times in its existence but reopened once more in 1990. It produces one malt whiskey and one blend, and visitors can see how during tours on weekdays.

The Loch Na Keal National Scenic Area consists of the northern section of the 'E'-shaped indentation on the west side of Mull, and includes the island of Staffa which inspired Mendelsson's Fingal's Cave Overture. The boat trip from enclosed Loch Tuath out to Loch na Keal is particularly dramatic due to the changing landscape.

In addition to its scenery, Mull supports wildlife of special interest. Over 250 species of birds flourish here. Mull's population of white-tailed eagles are descendants of captive-bred birds released to the wild on the nearby island of Rùm. As for the animals in the water, several operators on Mull offer cruises to see Minke whales, dolphins and porpoises.

Access and Places to Stay

Mull is an island. It has no rail connection and no motor coach service to any point on the mainland, although local buses do operate between points on the island itself. Most visitors will doubtless bring their own cars or hire one on the mainland and come to Mull by ferry. The most popular service is from Oban to Craignure as the ferries from Kilchoan to Tobermory and that from Lochaline to Fishnish have very poor road access on the mainland side. From Mull there are ferry connections on to Iona and to Ulva. Mull lives from tourism, and so has accommodations at every level from simple camping to historical hotels, and dining to match.

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