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Lochgilphead

 
Loch Fyne Nr Lochgilphead

Aptly named Lochgilphead actually does lie at the upper end of Loch Gilp, a branch of Loch Fyne. It was constructed as a planned town in 1790 after the road from Campbelltown to Inveraray was finished. The Crinan Canal, opened in 1801, passes along the west edge of the town. Lochgilphead has served as an administrative centre for Argyll and the surrounding area through many revisions of local government structure, until now the whole enormous Argyll and Bute Council Area is run from the town's Kilmory Castle.

Activities and Attractions

Both trout and salmon abound in the fresh waters around Lochgilphead, and a variety of local outfitters can set up visiting anglers with everything needed. A nine-hole golf course welcomes visitors, and a local stable serves visitors with equestrian interests. The shops in Lochgilphead tend to be character-filled independents rather than the usual High Street chains, making this one of the best shopping spots on the west coast. The Highbank Industrial Estate has a shop called the Highbank Collection featuring goods ranging from glass and ceramics to model wooden boats.

The nine mile long Crinan Canal was excavated to eliminate the long detour around the peninsula of Kintyre. It extends from Ardrishaig on Loch Fyne below Lochgilphead to the Sound of Jura at Crinan. The canal makes a pleasant cruise for modern pleasure craft. Its tow path also makes a delightful outing for walkers. Tarbert, a small village near Lochgilphead, hosts yacht races each summer and a Grand Prix for powerboats.

Castle lovers will find Lochgilphead a great headquarters for a survey of ancient fortresses in various states. The best preserved is Kilmory Castle in its forest park setting. In addition to the Council offices, Kilmory also houses the Forestry Commission.

The Iron Age hill fort within the Kilmory Castle's grounds is far from the oldest evidence of human occupation nearby. Just north of Lochgilphead stands a rocky outcrop which once held the most important fortress in all of Scotland. Dunadd was the seat of the kings of Dalriada, a precursor of the kingdom of Scotland, and here Kenneth MacAlpine was crowned the first king of a united Scotland. Below Dunadd is Moine Mhor, a bogland nature reserve with a short trail accessible to visitors in wheelchairs.

Only a bit further north lies Kilmartin Glen and the largest concentration of ancient monuments anywhere in Europe. The Kilmartin House Museum explores this rich legacy. Interesting rock carving of historic rather than prehistoric interest can be found in Kilmartin's churchyard.

The village of Kilmartin is blessed with not one but two castles. Sixteenth-century Kilmartin Castle is a gabled rectangle with a tower at opposite corners, a so-called Z-plan tower. It is built of uncoursed rubble: stones were smoothed only on the bottom face before being set in place, and the gaps were filled with small stones called pinnings until the wall was level enough for the next stone. The kitchen end of Kilmartin Castle has fallen in, but some of the original iron window grilles remain and the pistol loops used for its defence are plainly visible. Above the main entrance sharp-eyed observers may spot a heavily weathered armorial panel, and within the castle the hall fireplace still stands.

Carnasserie Castle stands two miles north of Kilmartin. It also dates from the 16th century, but its details have more of a Renaissance flavour than Kilmartin Castle's. A five story tower connected to a three story hall was built on a high point commanding the head of Kilmartin Glen. The castle was probably erected by John Carswell, Protestant Bishop of Argyll and the Isles. It was Carswell who translated the Liturgy written by John Knox into Scottish Gaelic, thus producing the first book ever printed in the language. In 1685 the castle was seriously damaged in the conflict between James VII and II and William III. The carved stone is still worth seeing, however.

Access and Places to Stay

The A83 runs through Lochgilphead beside the Crinan Canal. The road has twisty places and is used by goods lorries, but confident drivers with vehicles in good repair should have no problem with it. Motor coaches connect Lochgilphead to Glasgow and Campbelltown, but there is no practical rail or air service. A hired car is the best form of transportation.

A number of first-rate seafood restaurants line the shore in Lochgilphead and the surrounding villages. In Tarbert there is even one on a barge moored in the harbour.

Accommodation in the area may include B&B or guest house lodging or even camping or caravanning, but it could also mean a luxury room in a first class hotel. Lochgilphead offers travel experiences to suit almost any taste.

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