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In all of Ireland only one city retains its walls intact and unbreached. Londonderry, usually called Derry by most locals, is Europe's finest example of the walled cities of more violent times. The old city sits on the west bank of the River Foyle, the Cityside, although Derry now also fills the east bank, called the Waterside. The Foyle Valley is steep, so that Londonderry's streets run up and down and occasionally reveal sudden spectacular views.
History
Derry has been occupied by humans on a continuing basis as long as any place in Ireland. St. Columba founded a monastery here around 600, and the city grew up around the monastic community. Its strategic location made it a focus of hostilities during the sixteenth century of conquest of Ireland until it was destroyed by an Irish chieftain in 1608.
A new city was erected, this time on the west bank with walls to protect Englishmen and Scots who had migrated to Ireland as part of the Plantations. These fortifications were never breached. Londonderry was again the focus of hostilities in the seventeenth century between the native Irish, the English and the Scots in various combinations. In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries Derry became a port of embarkation for Irish migrants.
Violence erupted again during the War of Independence, and in 1921 Derry found itself a border city, cut off Donegal in the Irish Republic, which contained half of its traditional hinterland. During World War II, Derry's port of Lisahally was the Allies' most western European port and so became one of the terminals for Allied convoys. It was at Lisahally that the German U-Boat fleet surrendered after the war.
Derry was a flashpoint for The Troubles. Apparent gerrymandering to under-represent the Gaelic Irish majority in favour of the descendants of English and Scots transplants led to violence in the 1960s. In 1969 a series of escalating incidents raised tensions to the breaking point. The annual Apprentice Boys' Parade commemorating the lifting of the siege of Derry in 1689 sparked off three days of riots called the Battle of the Bogside. Many authorities consider this the beginning of The Troubles. Soon the British sent in troops, and the Army of the Irish Republic was at the border to offer medical assistance. This was the point at which The Troubles became not civil unrest but a guerilla war. Matters continued until 1972 when British paratroopers killed 14 unarmed civilians in Bogside and wounded 13 more in what became known as Bloody Sunday. Thankfully the 1998 peace accord resulted in a de-escalation of tensions in Londonderry and throughout Ireland. Many visitors come to Derry to see the famous Bogside murals painted during the period.
Things to see and do
Seven gates pass through them, but Derry's walls themselves are continuous, providing an interesting stroll about a mile long and some wonderful views of the old city. The two main thoroughfares that connect the original four gates and the Diamond or town square where they cross are lined with well preserved period buildings.
The Craigavon Bridge, one of two road bridges across the Foyle, is unique in its double decked construction. It was completed in 1933. The lower deck was originally a rail bridge, but was converted to a road bridge in 1968. The other bridge is the Foyle Bridge, completed in 1984, the longest bridge in Ireland.
The Church of Ireland's Plantation Gothic St. Columb's Cathedral was built at the same time as the walls. The Roman Catholic St. Eugene's Cathedral in Bogside dates from the 19th century.
Derry is the home of the oldest independent department store in the world. Austin's, established in 1830, is an ornate five story building in the city's walled centre. The town also offers two large shopping centres and several smaller ones as well as traditional shopping neighbourhoods.
Every October Londonderry hosts the Banks of the Foyle Halloween Carnival, and the Apprentice Boys hold an annual festival commemorating the lifting of the Siege. Other festivals centre on animé, electronic dance music and youth culture.
Access and Amenities
The City of Derry Airport hosts a limited number of domestic and European flights. Northern Island Railways runs a single train each day from Belfast to Londonderry. Road links include the A5/N2 corridor to Dublin and the A6 to Belfast.
Derry's pubs are a hotbed of live music. Even non-drinkers will enjoy the performances. Lodging in the city ranges from hostels to B&Bs and guest houses, pubs and hotels some traditional and some gleaming contemporary chains. Dining also covers a wide range, from the upscale glitter of The Exchange and Thompsons on the River all the way down to delicious chip shops and pub grub.
Accommodation in Londonderry
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