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Many visitors to Oban hurry through toward the ferries and the Isles beyond, but this traditional coastal resort in northwest Scotland makes a fantastic destination in itself. In winter the population is about 8,000 people, just under ten per cent of which are native Gaelic speakers. In summer it quadruples to almost 25,000 with the addition of tourists from all over the world. Under the touristy layer of bright tartans and wailing pipes there is a genuine Highland culture in Oban.
Humans have lived quietly here since the hunter-gatherers of the Mesolithic left behind microlithic evidence of the Obanian culture. In 1794 the Oban distillery was built and the labour demands of the new facility caused the town's population to explode. When the railway came in the nineteenth century, tourists came along with it. Nearby Ganavan was important in World War II and especially during the Cold War that followed, since the Transatlantic Cable that came ashore at Ganavan Bay carried the famous "Red Phone" line between the Presidents of the United States and the USSR.
Activities and attractions
Divers will find that the wrecks of the Sound of Mull provide world class underwater adventure. Wall and reef dives are also available. Gear can be rented from local outfitters, who also arrange diving expeditions.
From charter fishing trips to speedboats to sea to the world's only remaining seagoing paddle steamer, for whale watching or wildlife viewing, for overnight tours of historical islands to day trips to isolated island beaches, Oban offers excursions to suit any taste. Visitors who travel by private yacht should investigate the 180 berths at Dunstaffnage Marina three miles from Oban. On a promontory near the facility stands the ruins of the former Campbell stronghold of Dunstaffnage Castle where Flora MacDonald was once imprisoned.
The area around Oban abounds with wildlife. On land visitors may encounter red and fallow dear and wild goats as well as smaller creatures. Whale watching is a popular activity, and passengers on such cruises may also observe seals, porpoises and dolphins, otters and even basking sharks. In the air observers may spot buzzards and eagles.
Visitors to Oban may also rent bicycles and ride along the waterside as far as Gallanach Bay or Dunstaffnage. An inexpensive and readily available "Murder Mystery Walk" leaflet guides visitors from one to another of Oban's attractions while supplying clues to a mystery. Walking in the countryside or the hills is also a popular activity, as is horseback riding.
The most famous natural feature near Oban and the greatest hazard to navigation is Corryvreckan, the third largest whirlpool on earth. The topography of the bed of the Corryvreckan channel combines with dangerous currents from the Firth of Lorne to create an area of truly wild water whose waves can be nearly ten metres tall. Its roar can be heard up to 15 kilometres away. Porpoises and whales frolic in its waters and experienced local pilots lead whirlpool tours, but strangers without such guidance should stay well clear of the waters around Corryvrecken.
One green hill north of Oban is studded with the ruined remains of Dunlollie Castle, the fortress of the MacDonald Clan. The hilltop landmark actually visible from the town is not a castle, but McCaig's Tower, a late nineteenth century folly. The best view in all of Oban is likely from the tower grounds out over the bay and Kerrera Sound to the islands of Kerrera and Mull.
The Oban Distillery, established in 1794, offers tours guided by experts in whiskey manufacture that lead visitors through the entire process. At the close of the tour participants are offered a sample of Oban single malt.
The Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary lies on Loch Creran 13 kilometres north of Oban. The aquarium here is a favourite with younger visitors, but the facility's most important work is caring for injured or orphaned seals and otters. Its newest facility is a sanctuary designed to help save endangered freshwater turtles.
Access and Places to Stay
Situated at the terminus of the A85 road, Oban has frequent rail connections to Glasgow Queen Street and ferries serving the west coast and the Hebrides. Bus service is frequent and convenient, and private planes may use the airport in nearby North Connel. In addition, seaplanes operating from a terminal in Glasgow land in the bay.
Lodging in Oban ranges from basic hostels, B&Bs and guest houses all the way up to luxury hotels. The cuisine is mostly seafood based, and the assortment of full service restaurants are supplemented by pubs with quite good bar meals. The railway pier's kiosks sell delightful seafood takeaway.
Oban is a lively town after dark as well, with a good deal of late night activity taking place in pubs and hotel bars.
Accommodation in Oban
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