|
Scotland did not deal gently with witches, but the town of Sanquhar in Dumfriesshire was a tolerant exception, if the tales can be believed. The story goes that in the nearby village of Crawick there was a witch of the very worst order who on one occasion cursed a cow belonging to the local pastor. The wise prelate sent his servant to tie a branch of protective rowan over the door to the witch's home, and his cow was troubled no longer, but the witch remained. Even today, it is said, whenever Sanquhar's famous curlers have a match, the Witches of Crawick cast spells against their opponents.
Geography makes Sanquhar a great base for hillwalking, cycling or countryside rambles. The town sits on an important route up the valley of the River Nith from southern Scotland into the country's heartland. The nature of the country, its hillsides suitable for raising sheep, its soft water perfect for treating wool and above all its system of roads leading to the great markets of the Scottish interior made it a dominant textile centre.
Conflict and Castles
Its situation near the English frontier and on a natural path to the Scottish interior meant that Sanquhar was involved whenever the two countries were in conflict. The Scottish Wars of Independence, the conflict surrounding Mary Queen of Scots and the Jacobite rebellions all rolled past Sanquhar. It was in the square at Sanquhar that the Covenanter Richard Cameron read aloud the famous Sanquhar Declaration repudiating the monarchy in the name of religious independence.The disruption due to these intermittent conflicts may have been a contributing factor to Sanquhar's late industrialization.
Iron Age hill forts in the region testify to early occupants' need for security. When the problem became acute in the 1200s members of the Crichton family built Sanquhar Castle, which eventually evolved into a four story keep and a tiny courtyard surrounded by ranks of buildings. It was actually captured by the English during the War of Independence after the death of the child-queen Margaret of Norway, but its master at the time, William, Lord of Douglas sent a servant to sneak inside and open the gate to his troops and so took it back. William Wallace spent time at the castle, as did Mary, Queen of Scots and her son James VI and I.
The Crichtons sold the castle to the Douglasses in the middle years of the sixteenth century. In spite of a restoration attempt early in the twentieth century the castle declined into the ruin that now stands just south of the town after the construction of Drumlanrig, and now carries evidence of visits by lager drinkers and graffiti artists. Less evidence and more legends pertain to the ghostly White Lady, Marion of Dalpeddar with her long blond hair, said to have been murdered by one of the Crichtons. The White Lady continues to appear, we are told, even though remains were found during the last renovation attempt that match her description right down to blond hair still adhering to the skull.
Activities and attractions
The Southern Upland Way passes just outside Sanquhar, crossing the A76 near Sanquhar Castle. The Lowther Hills to one side and the Carsphairns and Scaurs to the other make for grand hillwalking. The nearby Sanquhar Golf Club's riverside course has fairways longer than some but is great fun to play. In the town itself, near the fountain erected for Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee, stands a 1712 post office claiming to be the world's oldest. The Tollbooth, which now contains Sanquhar's museum, has a recreation of a period jail on the ground floor.
Shops in the area still sell the famous Sanquhar knitted gloves. Their production is no longer the economic support of poor families, but locals wear them for weddings and such, and they are presented to visiting dignitaries. One pair of these each year goes to the ceremonial leader of Sanquhar's festival, the Riding of the Marches on the Saturday nearest August 18th of each year. A party led by this young man, the cornet, rides the boundaries of the parish with much festivity
Access and Places To Stay
Sanquhar is still on a major transportation route: the A76 from Kilmarnock and Ayr down to Dumfries is actually the town's High Street. Scotrail provides frequent service to Glasgow and to Dumfries and Carlisle as well as a few trains each day to Newcastle. Motor coaches also provide convenient connections. Accommodations range from camping and caravanning to B&B and self-catering lodging and on to country hotels, often all on the same premises. Pubs and tea rooms provide great cheap meals, and Sanquhar's full service restaurants are great for a splurge.
Accommodation in Sanquhar
Show Hotels in Sanquhar
Show Cottages in Sanquhar
| 
