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Stromness

 
Stromness

Stromness in Orkney stands on a harbour that was so important in Viking times as a refuge from the North Sea gales that is was called Hamnavoe, Peaceful Harbour. During the 17th century wars with France it became a centre of Britain's colonial trade as the English Channel was unsafe for shipping. Whaling vessels also used the port, and many Stromness natives participated joined crews of traders and whalers alike. To this day many residences in Stromness incorporate whalebone in their exterior finishing.

Activities and Attractions

The area around Stromness abounds in megalithic monuments. Most notably, the Ring of Brodgar stands on the narrow isthmus between Loch Harray and the Loch of Stenness. These stones are the largest intact stone circle in all of Britain, and all around them stand other stones, chambered cairns, rock-cut tombs and other remnants of Orkney's prehistoric past.

The Museum in Stromness is a trove of information about the town's history. Whaling artefacts are on display as are souvenirs of contact with Inuit in Canada and Greenland. More recent history is recalled by the displays of German artefacts collected after World War I when the German fleet was scuttled in Scapa Flow in plain view of Stromness. Natural history exhibits are also well represented, and a photographic archive helps put everything in context.

Divers wishing to explore the remains of the German vessels or other underwater attractions will find numerous outfitters in Stromness. Sailing is also possible here, but the strength of the wind makes it advisable only for those with some experience.

The ruin of seventeenth century Breckness House lies to the south of the main road in Outertown three kilometres west of Stromness. Built in for George Graham, the last Bishop of Orkney, the structure is unusual among L-plan buildings in having its entrance not in the interior angle but in one long outside wall. Most of the walls remain, as does the entrance and many of the window openings and the immense kitchen fireplace.

The Pier Arts Centre near Stromness Harbour houses the modern art collection of local author Margaret Gardiner. It now displays not only pieces from its permanent collection but changing exhibitions. The local arts community regard the Pier as something of a headquarters.

The Stromness Golf Club operates an eighteen-hole seaside parkland course in what may be the most exposed playing venue in Britain. The headland location poking out into Hoy Sound exposes golfers to North Atlantic breezes that would be characterised as gales in more southerly locations. While the course is short and level, it is tight enough to provide a challenge even without the ever-present wind.

Access and Places to Stay

Stromness, being on an island, has neither road nor rail connections with the British mainland, although there are plentiful local roads and local bus service is good. To reach the area one takes the ferry from Scrabster near Thurso on Scotland's northern shore. There is a rail station in Thurso as well as motor coach service, so that it is possible to access the ferry port using public transportation and then travel to Orkney as a foot passenger. There is an airport in Kirkwall with flights to Inverness, Aberdeen, Edinburgh or Glasgow where onward connections can be made.

Stromness is accustomed to tourists, and the town offers lodging at all levels from simple B&Bs and guesthouses to the elaborate luxury of first-rate hotels. Diners will find plentiful full-service restaurants as well as numerous cafés, tea rooms and pubs with delightful culinary offerings. The Hamnavoe Restaurant specialises in freshly-caught seafood and is known for its Lobster Lunches on Saturdays, while Julia's Café with its conservatory overlooking the port offers everything from fry-ups to vegetarian treats. Stromness pubs offer more than food, of course: their intimate ambiance and wide selection of potables makes the town's night life a unique experience.

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